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Prices & MarketBy VendiVoce Editorial Team

When is the best time to buy a car? The best periods of the year

Quarter-end, year-end, kilometre-zero stock, outgoing models and seasonality: here is when it really pays to buy a car, new or used, and how to be ready when the right window opens.

At dusk, rows of anonymous cars on a dealership forecourt with wet asphalt and warm lighting; a lone figure walks between the vehicles, weighing up a purchase.

Timing matters as much as haggling

There are two ways to move the price of a car: negotiate well, and show up at the right moment. The second is the one most buyers overlook, yet the very same model, from the very same dealer, can cost hundreds or even thousands of euros less depending on when you walk in. It is not luck. It is the commercial calendar that carmakers and dealers work to. Once you understand that calendar, you can arrive when the seller needs to close the deal more than you need to sign it.

Month-end, quarter-end, year-end: the calendar of targets

Dealers do not earn only on the margin of the individual car. A large share of their profit comes from the bonuses the manufacturer pays when sales targets are met, and those targets are almost always monthly, quarterly and annual. From this follows a simple rule: the closer a deadline gets, the more willing the salesperson is to shave the price just to move the counter up by a single unit.

The best windows are the final days of March, June and September — the quarter closings — and above all December, when quarter-end and year-end overlap. In December the dealer wants to close the books on a high note and clear the lot before the new model-year cars arrive, since a car loses value the moment its registration year rolls over. Turning up in the last days of the month, with a clear idea and a genuine willingness to sign, tilts the balance of the negotiation in your favour.

Kilometre-zero cars and new-model launches

The same target system creates the chilometri zero cars: vehicles the dealer registers in its own name to book them as sold and hit the quota, then puts back on the market practically new, with only a handful of kilometres on the clock. The discount off list price is typically between 15 and 30 per cent, and it grows the longer the car has been sitting unsold. In exchange you lose a year of warranty on paper and you cannot choose the colour and trim, but for anyone who wants a car ready for immediate delivery the saving is real.

The second lever is the model refresh. When a new generation or a facelift arrives, the outgoing version still in stock suddenly looks less desirable and gets discounted to free up space. If the incoming model brings nothing you actually care about — a new infotainment screen, a more efficient engine — buying the outgoing car in stock is one of the simplest ways to pay less for something that is still essentially current.

Seasonality: convertibles in autumn, 4x4s in spring

On the used market the price follows demand, and demand has a fairly predictable seasonal rhythm. Convertibles and roadsters are wanted when the sun is out: they cost more in spring and early summer, while in autumn and winter, when nobody is looking for them, prices soften. The opposite logic applies to 4x4s, all-wheel-drive SUVs and off-roaders: they are most sought after in cold, wet, snowy months and tend to cost less once temperatures rise and all-wheel drive stops feeling essential.

The same idea extends to other segments. Small city cars are in higher demand in spring, when many newly licensed drivers get their patente and go looking for a first car. If you are not in a hurry you can flip the season: buying a vehicle outside its peak-demand window means paying less and having more to choose from, because plenty of that type of car is on offer while very few people are bidding for it.

New versus used: two different clocks

The timing of a new car and a used one do not line up. For a new car, what matters most is the dealer's commercial deadlines: quarter-end, year-end, model launches and the manufacturer's promotional campaigns. That is where the biggest cuts to list price are concentrated.

For a used car, seasonality and the condition of the individual example weigh more heavily. The reference valuations — the ones produced by bodies such as ACI and the specialist magazines — give an average value, but the real price swings around that average depending on demand, mileage, service history and time of year. Before you negotiate, always compare the advert with the model's average quotation: it is the fastest way to tell whether you are looking at a genuine deal or an inflated price. The registration-year effect applies here too: a car first registered late in the previous year, bought a few months later, is already seen as last year's car and costs less than a fresher twin.

The fixed costs timing cannot touch

The right moment saves you money on the price, not on the transfer costs, which are due in any period. On a used car the passaggio di proprietà (transfer of ownership) must be completed within sixty days of the seller's signature being authenticated, and it bundles together mostly fixed items — stamp duty, ACI fees, Motorizzazione charges — plus the IPT, the provincial registration tax, which varies with engine power in kW and your province of residence. Budgeting for these in advance avoids nasty surprises and gives you extra leverage at the table.

It is equally worth checking three things upfront that have nothing to do with the discount: the bollo (the annual road tax, tied to power and emissions class, and whether it has been paid), the revisione (the roadworthiness test, first due four years after registration and every two years thereafter) and the Euro emissions class, which decides whether the car may enter city ZTLs and low-emission zones. If you are aiming for state incentives, remember too that some are linked to the household ISEE — an income indicator worth checking before you pick the car, not after.

A short checklist for using timing well

  1. Decide model, engine and budget in advance, so you can sign the moment the right window opens.
  2. Target the last days of March, June, September and above all December for a new car.
  3. Always ask whether there are chilometri zero cars or in-stock examples of the outgoing model.
  4. For used cars, buy out of season relative to demand: convertibles in winter, 4x4s in spring.
  5. Compare the price against the average reference valuation and budget for the passaggio, bollo and revisione.
  6. Browse the listings calmly and contact the seller without pressure, so you arrive ready at the best moment: on VendiVoce you can do it without signing up.

The bottom line

There is no single magic month that works for everyone: there is an interlock between the dealers' commercial calendar and the seasonal rhythm of demand. For a new car, the levers are the deadlines — quarter-end and year-end — together with kilometre-zero stock and outgoing models. For a used car, what counts is the season and the comparison with published valuations. Buyers who plan a few weeks ahead, instead of buying on impulse, pocket the easiest part of the discount: the part that depends only on when you sign.

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